Відео

Maybe I'm just a dinosaur but when did we start expecting autofocus to be snappy on a macro lens? In fact, when did anyone start using autofocus at 1:1? It certainly wasn't a particularly useful practice with the older F mount macro lenses. So either I'm behind the times or we're applying an unreasonable standard to this lens in terms of AF. Also, for those complaining about 1:1 performance, well, macro is hard. Dang hard. Depth of field is minute. Lighting is difficult. Camera needs to be rock steady if not using flash. I'd say macro at 1:1 or higher is one of the more technically difficult forms of photography and there doesn't seem to be anything inherent in this lens that makes it any more difficult than it normally is.

The APC or M43 are not really cropped though - they are simply different sizes. I suggest the current sensors of any size are good. There are ambassadors of all brands including Panasonic and Olympus M43 who are nature photographers. I think in the end it is who is behind the lens that makes the picture, not the equipment.

Or just buy cygnustech diffuser.

I use my built in flash with a soft diffuser similar to the one you have and get great shots.

Thank you for this easy to understand video. In the AF-C Priority Selection do you recommend setting it to release (as shown in your menu image) for back button focusing? I feel like I'm doing something wrong if I don't select the Focus option. Thank you.

very interesting and helpful, thank you. a larger sensor can take in more light, and get more megapixels to compensate for the cropping, finally made a lot of sense to me. sound was fine in my bose headphones, but it did seem lower than many other loud videos

volume needs to be louder in the video

Having tried ring flash, off-camera flash and various DIY diffusion systems, I have realised that a good speedlite and diffuser is the most convenient and reliable system to use when in the field. Having multiple flash heads, or ring lights is hard to effectively diffuse, but more importantly, when dealing with live subjects the extra time needed for configuring and setting up flash position can mean missing the shot. You can add plenty of depth to your shots with a well-diffused single flash simple by varying your exposure and flash power.

This is my favorite 105 tutorial video just because I love Peter’s video editing and transitions! 😂 10:32 Man jumped out the tree like black panther.

very interesting video; allow me a suggestion: to make the speech easier to follow, fewer digressions would make it more focused on the topic, less long and easier to follow. That said, I completely agree with you and I understand what you mean when you talk about the beauty of nature

5:06 in the film days, you had to check the table - which usually came with the lens documentation_ to know how much to compensate exposure according to the magnification. At 1:1 it's usually almost 2 stops of light (your f2.8 lens behaves more like an f5.6, regardless the focal length). Nice video !

Cool diffuser. Actually I make my own and stack by hand using the old Nikon flashes in manual mode, they keep up quite well.. Some lovely sharp shots too, thanks for sharing...

Hi, nice video ! Do you disable VR if your shutter speed is 1/2000? Thanks 🙏🏻🙏🏻

Very great detailed review but do you think that I can get away with the older lens I am starting to love micro photography but don't have a budget to get this lens should I go with some old manual lens

Hi Peter thx for sharing your tips like the ground pod

All 100% correct and relevant, great presentation Peter !!! 🤠😎

Tack så mycket!

I have severe gout in my right knee and ligament damage in same knee and still go out doing photography regardless how much pain I'm in. It's mainly the editing that i struggle with, getting that subject to pop out, even though i blur the background it still doesn't pop out all the time

👍 for the algorithm...😁

Just what I was doing today before I came home and saw this video. Using the excellent in-camera focus stacking on my Olympus E-M1 iii with 30mm macro lens.

I just bought this lens and noticed the aperture bit you mentioned. I usually always relied on auto-focus for photography but after trying this a few times I think I will have to use manual as you do

Thank you for sharing! It has been awhile since i have taken time to get out and do some real plant and flower photography. So thank you and I am subscribing!

I can honestly say I have never used the control ring. I control everything from the camera body and I find the 105MC lens absolutely amazing. Its optics are sensational.

Lovely images, thanks for sharing :)

Control ring is exposure compensation on all of my Z lenses

As you use a Nikon, why not look at the The Nikon R1C1 Close-Up Speedlight Commander Kit - Can be used on or off the camera - TTL or Manual - excellent kit

We need to see samples after each set up.

Manual mode with auto ISO is my #1. I can also control this a bit with exposure compensation on my Nikon such as when shooting a white bird in flight against a dark background, the camera wants to sometimes meter off the darker area and blow out the white bird. I learned this the hard way.

do you mean the original F mount 105?

Thanks for this Peter, very useful info... Can I ask you please what the small diffusers are, make and size, that you used in the video? Thanks in advance, Robert.

Great video. I like it. 😉 Thanks

I absolutely love all my Z lenses but agree that the position and design of the control rings is poorly thought out and can easily lead to mistakes. The idea is great, the implementation poor. However, they can be disabled but that's a shame ...

For BIF (settings are on number 2 on the top dial of my Sony) I have set my camera to A (aperture priority), Auto- ISO, and so on, but with AUTO ISO Min. shutterspeed set to 1/2000. When the bird comes down and sits on a branch, I push my programmed AEL button, wich has all the settings for a perched bird. With the BIF, I can change the minimum shutterspeed (AUTO ISO min shutterspeed) just by rotating the wheel on the back. It has the advantage imo, that it's a minimum shutterspeed. If the amount of light is ok, the camera itself will raise the stutterspeed. I put no limit on my AUTO-ISO, that way, I will always keep the desired shutterspeed. Zebra is set, to warn me if the use of over-or undercompensation is required. This way of shooting gives me all the creatif input I need, yet the only thing I change most of the time, is my aperture, the rest follows in a way I have told the camera to do and he does that, as you say, much faster then I ever could.

Recently got my KX-800. Fantastic for wide-angle macro.

Thank you so much for the info. Question, i have a Zf with the 105 S macro lens. What flash do you suggest to use and what diffuser would you recommend, also, have you ever focus stacked? If so, how do you go about doing that?

Poor audio.

The Nikon 200-500mm lens is extremely sharp at 500mm. If you are doing wildlife photography, you should be in shutter priority mode. That way the camera will determine what your aperture will be. If a photographer is manually adjusting the aperture to F8, there might be a problematic lens being used.

I like having a shoulder strap on a big camera and lens like this. Not a neck strap, but shoulder strap.

I love your bike set up. I need something similar.

What is the tabletop tripod that you used in the video, I’m very interested

So first thing you say is that the built in flash is useless ! Then you mount an external flash on the camera, in more or less the same position as the built in flash, but put a diffuser on the lens. Why not use the diffuser for the onboard flash ? Yes it is pretty useless, but if it's all you've got, it's pretty good ! sorry, stopped the video there, and gave it a thumbs down ! Why not try different things with the onboard, tell people what they can do if that's all they've got, instead of just saying it's useless. OH and if you bought a decent camera, you wouldn't have the built in flash, why not say the camera is rubbish and have done with it !

Nice videos peter I look forward to your vidios .I also have a Nikon D810 and Tamron 150-600mm g2. Keep up the good work.

I am really impressed with your camera angles and b roll. Overall how you make your videos is very professional. Keep up the great work.

Hello Peter, I follow you with interest, you are very good and make interesting videos. I wanted to ask you what type of seeds you use for the birds that appear in this video, Jays and Woodpeckers, and whether you just need to put them in the same morning as the photos or whether you have to get them used to them by bringing them food in the days before. I use RAW THERAPEE for photo editing, and I use an A7RIII + 500mm F8 Tamron catadioptric and I often have to use high ISO with cloudy skies, in the shade or in the evening, and for now with many vicissitudes and adjustments I can manage the noise quite well , but I would like software that allows you to select the areas to apply noise reduction, and, unless I noticed RAW THERAPEE does not allow you to do this: does DXO Photolabs do this? If not, do you know of any software that allows this?

Thank you, Peter. I have that Tamron lens and a D7100 crop sensor and have found that f8 is terrific. Informative video as usual, I found it very useful.

Hi Peter. I totally agree with you. We often place too much emphasis on sharpness/filling the entire frame with the subject and totally forget about composition - and as you say - creating a story. Another great video. Cheers!

Nu har jeg kigget meget på sigmas 150-600mm som en billig lense til når jeg skal til Afrika for jeg hsr ik penge til en mega dyr prime lens men har ik ku finde ud af om der sku være sport eller ders c model men har virkelig ogsp kigget på tamron men jeg har bare været lidt bekymret for om den larmer fks jeg har en billiger tamron 70-200mm og når den skal fokusere så larmer den af h til men er stadig meget usikker på hvad jeg skal vælge til min tur til Afrika hvad vil du anbefale sigmas sport elelr ders c eller tamron g2? Bruger pt Canon 70D

Thank you for the tips!

Eight other videos that were crap. Finally a video that shows you how to actually set it up. Thank you!

I've had this lens for several years now and have been quite happy with it on my Nikon D750. I have used it for shooting both high school sports and wildlife. In regards to your leg knocking the AF switch off I have had the same problem. A small piece of gaffer's or electrical tape will take care of it.